The mystery-shrouded Newgrange and The Hill of Tara were my main destinations on this first-time solo trip to Ireland. Wondering why? Because these two places are so deeply woven into the spirit of the country, its history, legends, and traditions that they are simply impossible to miss for the first-time travelers to Ireland, just like me!
The Hill of Tara
The first time I heard the name “Tara” was in “Gone with the Wind” (my Mom’s favorite movie of all time, besides the “Avengers” movies 😊). The Tara plantation in Georgia, U.S. was Scarlett O’Hara’s sanctuary; and she would do anything to keep and protect it. The name “Tara” stems from Teamhair na Rí (“Sanctuary of the Kings”). And the Hill of Tara is a real place in Ireland, just a 27-mile drive from Dublin!
It’s said that one can see a quarter of Ireland from the top of the Hill of Tara, others claim – half of the country! I don’t know exactly which one is true, but the view went on forever and was absolutely breathtaking! With every step I took on the Hill of Tara, I understood why at least 142 kings were crowned here.
You see, when you walk on the Hill of Tara, it’s not just a hill, it’s actually a large ancient complex of monuments, burial grounds, and archeological mysteries. Hill of Tara was also a place of power for the mysterious Tuatha de Danann tribe, who possessed supernatural powers. Imagine Legolas the Elf from The Lord of the Rings but on steroids — you get the picture 😊. Fabled throughout Ireland, they are the inspiration of many Fairy tales across Europe, including fairy mounds. I almost wonder if they are related to the Huldufólk (Hidden People) of Iceland.
One of the ancient mounds, Mound of the Hostages, was just beneath my feet. I walked up and over the hill, then down a path to the other side and discovered a secret door to this Passage Tomb. Passage Tombs are believed to be special burial places. Mound of the Hostages supposedly holds the remains of over 300 Celts inside. The entrance to this one is protected by a gate.
We do know that the location of this entrance aligns with the movement of the Sun. Only twice a year the sun shines through this particular passageway. This occurs on Samhain (October 31) and on Imbolc (February 1), ancient Gaelic holidays, the end of the harvest year and the beginning of spring respectively.
On the surface, the Hill of Tara is full of surprises too! The Lia Fáil, the ageless Roaring Rock of the Kings, also known as the Stone of Destiny, still proudly stands on the top of Inauguration Mound of the Hill of Tara. It is one of the four treasures brought to Ireland by the Tuatha de Danann, together with the magical Sword, Spear, and Cauldron. It roars at the touch of a true King or Queen. However, some believe that the current stone is a mere replica. And the real one is safely hidden somewhere else, awaiting the true Queen or King of Ireland.
There are so many legends throughout the ages associated with this area! It is believed to be an entrance to the Otherworld. This was also the place where St. Patrick allegedly challenged the High King of Ireland and began the conversion of the country to Christianity. There were unauthorized digs trying to locate the Ark of the Covenant here as well!
Having a bit of time to roam around, I wandered into the old Hill of Tara graveyard, by the Church of St. Patrick, nearby.
This tomb by the church caught my eye. Not sure who it belongs to or how old it is…
Lunch at a Farm
The lunch stop was at Newgrange Farm, a working farm, with tasty sandwiches available to purchase. Meeting a variety of farm animals, with wonderful guides chatting about life on the farm was really educational! I even held a tiny chick in my hands! 😊
One of my favorite signs here is for the “evil” bunnies 😊.
Newgrange
Our tour bus proceeded to Newgrange, definitely the #1 place to visit on my first solo trip to Ireland and the last destination of this adventure. This 5,200-year-old megalithic structure, older than Stonehenge AND the Egyptian Pyramids, was even more impressive in person than on any of the photos I’ve ever seen. Newgrange is only 40 minutes from Dublin (about 32 miles) and you’ll regret it if you leave it off your itinerary! It’s also 30 minutes from the Hill of Tara, so whether you are taking a bus tour or driving, it’s definitely worth seeing both of these destinations in one day.
There are so many theories and legends surrounding Newgrange, but we may never know who built it or why. For example, the aforementioned Tuatha de Dannan (a.k.a. People of the Goddess Danu, the Sidhe, Fairies) are credited in creating Newgrange as a burial mound for their chief Dagda Mór and his three sons. After the restoration in 1962-1975 by Professor Michael J. O’Kelly and his team, Newgrange today is a circular mound, 279 feet in diameter and 43 feet high.
These symbols carved in stone are still a mystery. Hopefully, one day we will decipher their meaning.
See those stairs? They descend into the entrance of Newgrange. The tunnel is pretty low, dark and narrow, with a 63-foot passageway opening into the chamber. One beam on the low ceiling was definitely out to get me. I hit it with the top of my head on my way in, and the very same beam got me on the way out! LOL! Unfortunately, there are no photos allowed inside Newgrange. But yes, the famous tri-spiral design on one of the stones inside is there! And you can see a similar pattern on the stones outside as well.
The square window above Newgrange entrance is designed to allow sunlight to shine through the chamber during annual solstice (December 20th – 23rd). Our guide used a bright flashlight to imitate the movement inside the chamber to recreate the experience. If you want to experience it during winter solstice days, the only way to do it is to participate in a special Newgrange lottery to get a chance to enter the chamber. And even then, it won’t be guaranteed that you’ll have the full experience if it’s too rainy or cloudy.
To the waters and the wild
With a faery, hand in hand,
For the world’s more full of weeping than you can understand. “
From “The Stolen Child” by W.B. Yeats
And you know what, Newgrange vibrates… When I first got there, I thought a storm was approaching. The moment just before the rain hits, when the atmospheric pressure tightens up and you can feel those roaring thunder clouds closing in. There is no thunder yet, but your skin resonates with the quiet rumbling in the air.
However, it might have been from the brand new archeological dig next door. Martin (our guide), Patty (the driver) and I were trying to peek through the hedges near Newgrange at the brand new henge dig that made international news while I was in Ireland. I must say after climbing the Kilkenny Tower a day before, my legs were killing me 😊.
Tour Recommendations
If you enjoyed following my adventure in this post, I strongly recommend booking this package offered by Newgrange Tours by Mary Gibbons that includes exploring Newgrange, The Hill of Tara, and a stop at Newgrange Farm and Coffee Shop. The tour costs 45.00 euros (lunch is purchased separately on the farm).
In Conclusion
We hope you enjoyed this extensive four-part series about my first time solo trip in Ireland. Do not miss Part 1 about exploring Dublin, Part 2 about places to eat, drink, and stay in Dublin, and Part 3 about a day-tour in Kilkenny and Glendalough.
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2 Comments
carpe diem Eire
Never heard of the Tuatha de Dannan before. Or maybe I forgot. You had lunch at Newgrange Farm. I too hit my head on the ceiling of Newgrange, I was running after my young daughter at the time and bam. That really hurt. Lesson learned that day. 😅 it’s so nice to read about familiar places.
MonkeysVentures
Thanks for your comment, John!! Yes!! Newgrange Farm! Will update info on the post. LOL! 🙂 It was probably the same beam that hit you at Newgrange too! We love Celtic mythology, it was fun to investigate different legends surrounding Newgrange and the Hill of Tara! The post would have been even longer if we put everything that we’ve learnt! 🙂