San Juan Bautista – The City of History

What do Alfred Hitchcock, the grim tale of the Donner Party, and a historic Catholic Mission have in common? Visit San Juan Bautista, California, and discover this curious connection! Cruising along Highway 101 in the Greater SF Bay Area, some of you might be familiar with Highway 156 WEST going through Castroville (The Artichoke Capital of the World) and out to the coastal villages of Monterey County. But just 3 miles EAST on Hwy 156 you’ll find San Juan Bautista, a town where 19th century California comes to life!

Once upon a time (1850-1880), San Juan Bautista was a bustling town. Home to The Coast Line Stage Company, it was one busy stop. US Mail, travelers, groceries, and other goods passed through its streets day and night and from all directions. And being at the crossroads of two major throughways, other stage companies took advantage of the town’s prime location as well.

Back in the day, if you left Los Angeles at 6 am, you’d arrive at San Juan Bautista and ready to party by 8 pm… TWO DAYS later… 😊 Traveling by stagecoach was uncomfortable, crowded, and often dangerous, with bandits and other hazards along the way.

By the journey’s end, a weary traveler only wished for a hot meal and a comfortable place to sleep.

The Plaza Hotel in San Juan Bautista was the perfect choice for lodging at the time. In 1933 the hotel was converted to a museum, giving generations of new travelers a glimpse into the past.

Opened in 1859 by Angelo Zanetta, an Italian immigrant, the Plaza Hotel offered 18 rooms, with nightly rates between $1.50 and $2.00.

For entertainment, families gathered in this cozy parlor for quiet activities, exchanging stories from the road, and sipped non-alcoholic drinks.

For the rowdier bunch, there was a full bar with drinks in abundance, complete with card games and billiard tables.

It is a known fact that some folks would ride their horses into the bar and grab a drink without ever leaving the saddle. Sort of like a modern-day drive through!

Angelo Zanetta was also an excellent Chef, serving Italian and French food to his guests. Some menu items were more traditional, like ham and eggs (40 cents), juicy sirloin steak smothered with mushrooms (70 cents), or a cup of coffee for 10 cents. All orders above 25 cents included potatoes, bread, and butter. And, speaking of food… 😊

Dining in San Juan Bautista

These days San Juan Bautista still offers excellent dining options. Here is a couple we would like to suggest:

Jardines de San Juan is a multi-award winner 40-year old family-owned restaurant, serving Mexican food in a gorgeous setting. Numerous friends of ours have been raving about it!

Photo Credit on the left : Angelina Santana. Photo Credit on the right: Andrea Winkler. Courtesy of Jardines De San Juan.

From chimichangas and carnitas tacos, to carne asada and chile colorado! Vegetarians — Val’s vegan burrito is another popular item on the menu. And don’t forget to try apricot margaritas, Jardines de San Juan specialty. We’d drive to San Juan Bautista just for that dinner!

Got a hankering for Basque cuisine? Matxain Etxea Basque restaurant is a must-stop. Another family-owned restaurant, with a warm friendly atmosphere, and the owner greeting guests at the door. Once the house was full, he would walk from table to table, chatting and sharing stories of the motherland, while offering a helping hand if your drink was low. It’s a refreshing Old-World experience, and the food is delicious!

Especially, when accompanied by a live guitar concert and a glass of perfect sangria. We loved our pork chop dish and Basque bacalao! And chorizo in wine for an appetizer is always a hit for us!

Ready to explore more?

The Donner Party

If you’ve ever heard of the Donner Party, your mind probably conjures images of pioneers’ expeditions to the West, California Gold Rush, and possibly one of the most macabre stories ever recorded from that era.

The Donner Party is named after the leaders of the group, George and Jacob Donner, joined by James Reed (thus, sometimes called Donner-Reed party), together with several other families of pioneers, including the Breens, which we’ll get into in a minute.

In the winter of 1846-1847, eighty-seven people traveled by wagon train to the west, hoping to strike it rich and settle down in California. Crossing the Sierra Nevada mountain range via shortcut, they became stranded in the heavy snow and harsh freezing conditions. After several weeks and their food supply depleted, the Donner Party members had no choice but to resort to human flesh as their only means to survive. Only 48 of 87 pioneers made it to California.

That brings us back to San Juan Bautista. Originally from Ireland, the Breen family emigrated to Canada, then to the US, and then joined the Donner Party in Missouri with their eight kids. Patrick Breen, the patriarch of the family, kept a diary throughout their journey west, one of the main sources for historians to learn what happened to the pioneers of the Donner Party.

After the ordeal, and arriving penniless to San Juan Bautista, Patrick, Margaret, and their eight children were given sanctuary at the Mission in February 1848, and later on, granted a house by General Castro. To this day, the descendants of the Breen family still live in town.

Castro-Breen House is located next door to Plaza Hotel. Walking around it, you’ll be able to glimpse into the rooms and see how families of the 19th century lived. Fascinating!

Mission San Juan Bautista

Built mere feet from San Andreas fault, Mission San Juan Bautista is one of the most beautiful historical missions in California, and the 15th mission built in the state. The great San Francisco earthquake in 1906 had caused severe damage, but the mission was restored in 1949 with funding by the Hearst Foundation.

The Mission has been providing church services daily since its inception in 1797. All are welcome to join the services, but we suggest taking some extra time before or after to explore the Mission and the property.

Besides gorgeously landscaped grounds, the Mission is also a museum, deeply connected with California’s rich history.

Alfred Hitchcock filmed his famous scene from the movie “Vertigo” right here at Mission San Juan Bautista.

Walking Around Town

Most of the time, visitors to San Juan Bautista only see the Mission, Plaza Livery Stable with their collection of stagecoaches, Plaza Hotel, and the Jose Castro House (Castro-Breen Adobe). We encourage you to explore more of the city itself and absorb its atmosphere.

There are 49 historic buildings in San Juan Bautista, all easily accessible by a short walk, like this Settlers Cabin below. San Juan Bautista Historic Walking Trail site has fantastic information about each of them.

And make sure to check the City’s events calendar before your visit, there is always something going on!

For more California adventures, read our posts about Fort Ross, Solvang, and Paso Robles to start.

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