Fort Ross, CA: From Russia With Love

Surrounded by majestic evergreen forest, Fort Ross, the 19th-century Russian fort, is perched above the Pacific Ocean, a mere hour and a half north of the Golden Gate Bridge. While the San Francisco Bay Area has its fair share of historical sites and unique attractions, Fort Ross in Sonoma County is a destination in itself.

Beginning our trip on a Thursday morning, traffic was fairly light and stress-free, versus white-knuckling it most of the way stuck in weekend traffic. And, once out of the City and up the road a ways, we were weaving through the countryside and the farmlands of Petaluma. Hungry and looking for a place to eat, we spotted a bright and inviting building along Highway 1, so we pulled in to take a look.

Welcome to Russian House #1

Just three minutes before your reach the town of Jenner, Russian House #1 is unmissable with its bright yellow roof and big red sign. On our way to Fort Ross, it was only appropriate we stop here to officially begin our Russian-themed adventure. (Unfortunately, Russian House #1 has closed but we loved this experience and keeping its memory in this post. Hopefully, it will reopen one day).

When we stepped through the door, we were greeted by a couple chatting near panoramic windows opening to a serene view of the Russian River. The Russian River, by the way, is formerly known as Slavyanka, meaning “Slavic woman”, named so by the first Russian settlers in the area.

While Monkey was exploring the eclectically decorated patio overlooking the curves of the Russian River, we were talking with volunteers who run this place. The whole idea of this unique restaurant is “Welcome to our home!”, as if you were visiting a friend’s house. Rooted in Russian cuisine, menus vary by day, and there are no set prices. Serve yourself, pay what is fair and/or volunteer to help out!

The concept goes beyond a tavern along the road. Visitors are welcome to start an impromptu jam on the piano, take a load off in the meditation room, or strike up a fun conversation with fellow travelers. With a respectable collection of books to flip through and brainteaser puzzles, Russian House #1 is the perfect place for weary travelers to relax and take their minds off the road for a while.

We chose the vegetarian Borscht soup and Chicken Stroganoff. Both were excellent! While sipping a cup of tea with a mouth-watering honey cake for dessert, we were already planning a second visit.

Relax at Fort Ross Lodge

A minute or two north of the fort is the cozy Fort Ross Lodge. We discovered this hotel by accident the evening before our trip, and couldn’t have been more pleased with our find. Our cabin room faced the ocean, beyond a vast meadow with a path leading towards the cliff.

We had an in-room fireplace (stocked with firewood) and a Weber BBQ grill on our patio. The hotel has ready-to-burn charcoal available for free, by the way. And the room was stocked with plates and utensils. Next time at Fort Ross Lodge we are bringing a couple of steaks to cook.

The staff was super-friendly, accommodations comfortable, and the sunset stunning! So, we definitely recommend staying at Fort Ross Lodge.

Directly across the hotel, there is a convenience store and gas station. Here you can find everything you’ll need for your stay, including pet necessities (doody bags, food, toys, etc.), and even a decent DVD rental selection – which is also free for guests of Fort Ross Lodge!

Fort Ross

The Origins

How did Fort Ross come to be? Thanks to one of the most romantic love stories in the world… That’s how.

In 1806 Nikolai Rezanov, a Russian State Inspector, sailed his schooner “Juno” from Alaska to the shores of California, which were controlled by Spanish forces at the time. The purpose of his voyage was to acquire emergency supplies to prevent famine in the Russian settlement back in Sitka, Alaska.

Nikolai was warmly greeted at the Spanish outpost in the Presidio (before San Francisco became San Francisco) by the Commander and his family. In no time, the Commander’s young daughter Concepcion “Conchita” Arguello and the Russian nobleman became enamored with one another. After six weeks of courtship, Nikolai was granted the blessing to marry Concepcion and proposed to her.

Then through his diplomatic efforts, the emergency supplies to Alaska were secured as well. Win-Win, right? There was only one issue: Concepcion Arguello was Roman-Catholic, and Nikolai Rezanov was of Russian Orthodox faith.

Nikolai set sail to deliver the emergency supplies to Sitka and cross the channel to the Motherland. Then endured a dangerous journey through Siberia to St. Petersburg to seek the Emperor’s permission to marry interfaith to Concepcion Arguello. After suffering three cases of pneumonia along the way, Nikolai became weary and frail. Finally, the love-sick nobleman fell from his horse and died near what is now known as the City of Krasnoyarsk, 900 miles from St. Petersburg.

Concepcion had been patiently waiting for her beloved to return (some say years) until the day she received the news of Nikolai’s death. Heartbroken, she refused to ever marry but instead chose a life of servitude to the unfortunate ones. As a matter of fact, Concepcion Arguello became the first California-born nun.

In 2002 soil from their graves was scattered over each other — Nikolai’s grave in Krasnoyarsk, Russia, and Conchita’s in Benicia, California — so they can finally be together, at least symbolically. There is a world-famous Russian rock opera “Juno and Avos” (the names of Nikolai’s two ships), portraying the love story of Conchita and Nikolai.

What does any of this have to do with Fort Ross? It was Nikolai Rezanov who sent numerous letters to the Emperor suggesting to build a Russian settlement in California to assist with provisions for Alaska! Based on his proposals, Fort Ross was built in 1812. The name Fort Ross, by the way, is a derivative of the old word “Rus” or “Ros” for Rossiya, meaning Russia.

Life at Fort Ross

Established by the Russian-American Company, whose presence was growing in Alaska, California, and even Hawaii, Fort Ross’s primary mission was to support Russian settlers in Sitka. This outpost was involved in fur trade (until otters in the nearby waters disappeared), agriculture (that wasn’t that easy to do in the moody cold climate of the Sonoma coast), diplomacy, and trade.

As with any fort, the cannons are always a big hit with the visitors. Despite its high protective walls, and slightly intimidating look, For Ross never participated in any military actions. The three cannons in the courtyard are all replicas of the howitzers used during the 1800s. Two of these replicas are fully functional and fire 5 ½ inch balls.

The new settlement’s main threat at the time was Spanish forces, and the fort was well armed to thwart off an attack. Fortunately, the arsenal at Fort Ross was never used in defense but fired only as a greeting to visiting dignitaries.

In thirty years of Fort Ross’s existence, the Russians and the Aleuts who came with them from Alaska contributed greatly to their new neighborhood. The settlers established relationships with the local Kashia Pomo Native American tribe, Spanish, and later Mexican diplomats. They also built the first windmill in California.

Russian explorers supplied grapevines to Fort Ross from Lima, Peru, becoming the first grapes grown in Sonoma County. They’ve also brought saplings of fruit trees to plant other orchards, like apples and pears.

TIP: You can still walk through the remaining fruit orchard. Where the pines meet the sea, pick a couple of apples or pears, and have a free snack while taking in the views. But please be respectful and only pick what you’ll eat. Right across from the Fort Ross entrance, on the other side of Highway 1, there is a road going up the hill. Drive for about five minutes, and amongst various berry bushes, you’ll notice a gate on the right side. This is the hidden Fort Ross Orchard.

Rotchev House

The well-educated socialite Princess Gagarina eloped with Alexander Rotchev, a writer and explorer, against her family’s wishes. Alexander became the commander of Fort Ross (1838-1841), offering her a new world.

When Princess Elena Gagarina stepped off the Russian ship onto the California Coast, she had no idea her new family home at Fort Ross would still be standing 200 years later. It is the last of four remaining Russian buildings in the US (the other three are in Alaska).

She also never expected a mountain to be named after her either. Yep, Mount Saint Helena, the highest peak in what is now known as Napa Valley, was named after the great princess explorer. Creating and teaching her own curriculum, Elena opened a school for her three kids and all children from neighboring areas.

Smartly dressed in the latest fashion, beautiful and charming, Elena had all the whos-who clamming for a chance to visit Fort Ross. Horse-drawn carriages with the nobility of various cultural backgrounds traveled to Fort Ross to take part in the festivities, music, and food. Fort Ross had become the outpost of European culture in California, a place to see and be seen.

Elena Gagarina was an avid horseback rider and could be spotted galloping through the forests on any given day. The frontier princess charmed many dignitaries, including the Chief of the Kashia Pomo tribe and the Mexican Officer Vallejo. Whatever vague information we could find was that Elena had to be rescued while riding in the hills, either by the Chief or the Officer. Allegedly, there were hints of possible romances… maybe.

In 1841 due to the unprofitability of Fort Ross, The Russian-American company decided to sell the fort and leave California. The Rotchev family executed the sale of the fort to John Sutter a.k.a “Emperor of California” for 42, 857 silver rubles, and even that was allegedly not paid.

Elena and the Commander Alexander Rotchev divorced amicably a year later. She was appointed by the Empress of Russia to run an orphanage program and never remarried. Elena has been quoted as saying, “she had her happiest time in Fort Ross”.

Fort Ross Visitor Center

A great place to begin your visit is the Fort Ross Visitor Center in the main parking lot. We were eager to get to the Fort, but suggest you stop by the Visitor Center first. Here you can gather some useful information about what you will see once you’re at the Fort. Inside you’ll be drawn to the Center’s engaging collection of artifacts and displays, depicting colorful history of the Russian settlers.

And don’t forget to browse their impressive exhibitions, bookstore, and gift shop (our favorite), with lots of fun and unique souvenirs to take home!The Center also offers educational opportunities through the Fort Ross Conservancy (FRC) programs. Check their site for hours of operation, tickets, and more information.

Cemetery

No matter what nationality or religion you associated with, all were granted a place to rest overlooking the Pacific Ocean at the Fort Ross cemetery. If you wish to pay your respects or visit this solemn corner of the property, it’s a little tricky to find.

You can hike to it from the fort, or head south on Highway 1 from the main entrance, and after a sharp curve just past the Russian Gulch, you’ll notice a wooden fence, a big cross, and a turnout area right by the gate to the Fort Ross cemetery.

Bodega Bay

After an exciting day at Fort Ross, we headed home by way of the sleepy ocean-side town of Bodega Bay. You’re instantly drawn to its colorful laid-back charm as you cruise through the main part of town. With so much to see along the way, your eyes will be darting back and forth, mapping out shops and eateries to return to later. If Bodega Bay sounds familiar, Alfred Hitchcock filmed the famous 1963 classic horror movie “The Birds” here. Here is a fun clip to check out (58 years later and still disturbing):

For seafood lovers, Bodega Bay offers BBQ oysters, clam chowder, and all the fish & chips you can handle. On weekends (beginning Friday afternoon), the restaurants and chowder houses quickly develop lines out the door, so go earlier if you can.

With plenty of outdoor seating, parking, and being dog-friendly, “The Birds Cafe” seemed like a fitting spot, being called the Birds and all :-). The fish & chips, fried artichoke hearts, and clam chowder were delicious!

Oh, and by the way, don’t forget to pick up some salt water taffy in one of the shops on the main road! We recommend Patrick’s of Bodega Bay.

Have you been to Fort Ross? Hope we put it on your radar to visit!

For more California adventures and day trips, read our posts about San Juan Bautista, Solvang, and Paso Robles to start with. We love hearing from you, so comment away below! And subscribe to our blog!